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Diamond saw blades, drill bits, polishing and grinding wheels are sold everywhere! You can buy them on E-Bay or at the hardware store, you don’t even have to call to buy blades, solicitors call you! (everyday!)

So why would you want to buy diamond cutting products from us? Because we are not a manufacturer, instead we are a dealer of nearly fifty worldwide manufacturers. We “cherry pick” the best performing products from each of those manufacturers, and group them into one great inventory source of quality products. Everything we offer has out performed forty-nine others. Also included in the price is the advice and knowledge you may need to help give you a head start. We offer ALL accessories which will make your saw blades and diamond tools most productive. You know, those little trick do-dads and gizmo’s that may bridge the gap between a guy with a saw, and a true, professional cutting craftsman.

Diamonds, equipment, parts, tools, guards, blade dressing stones, wet kits, dust abatement/containment products, wedges, adhesives, safety gear, anchors, abrasives, extension rods, water swivels, (THE GOOD SQUEEGEES) and much more can all be purchased right here, right now, and mix and match buying of different brands categories and types of tools can be handled in one simple sales transaction. You may browse through our “Authorized Dealer” list on the following pages, go to a particular website, and locate the product, part number and even List Price. Then call us for “our price” and even competitive prices from other Manufacturers for the same or similar item.

We can be reached Monday through Friday from 8:00 AM to 5:30 PM Mountain time, at 1-888-795-0777 toll free, for your access to the largest inventory of diamond cutting products and accessories available anywhere. Tell us what you want, we will save you the time of clicking from screen to screen to locate it, price, prepare, and ship your order on the spot.

We promise knowledgeable and courteous assistance, no voice message Merry-Go-Rounds, no “press 1 for English” to #19 for more options (just people), no rap or Barry Manilow background music, no buy 9 and get 1 free, no join our club, no chat room, no surveys, and no log in with 29 digit passwords and at least 10 numerals.


Diamond cutting products are categorized in five quality grades of diamond. The higher the quality of diamond, the harder, stronger and sharper the diamond is, allowing it to hold up to friction, heat and stress better. Obviously this is important when cutting 6,000 PSI concrete vs. 3,000 PSI concrete, granite, hard brick pavers, re-bar, river rock, etc. Also when upgrading, the diamond concentration, or actual amount of diamonds within a segment, may also increase, especially in the three highest grades. This increases the value of the blade because you are getting more carats of diamond per blade, and may significantly extend the life and increase the speed as well, because more diamonds cut more stuff. Using too low of grade of blade is the main reason blades don’t cut. It is like using a Volkswagon to move a bed and mattress, (could probably be done but doesn’t make much sense, not very effective, un-safe, may take more time and cost more in the long run, you look like an idiot, etc.) A blade must be matched to it’s application, and trying to save a few bucks may end up costing much more in dollars and labor time wasted, frustration, unnecessary steps for improvisation, additional trips to replace the inferior product, and you may look stupid and unprofessional in the eyes of those involved as well.

ECONOMY- Poor quality but suitable for very soft cutting projects such as grout, cinder blocks, cement board or very small jobs. These are generally the unbelievable low priced bargain blades and a bad choice. Generally speaking, to step up to the next grade, one would only pay 20% more but cut 50% faster and last 50% longer, even in harder materials such as denser concrete, re-bar, granite, river rock, etc. These are those infamous blades that LAST FOREVER, you know, the one’s that quit cutting after 10 minutes, and get hung up on that nail on your shop wall, and hang there forever! After all, you can’t throw it away, you paid $49 hard earned dollars for it. You should have spent $90 for a real blade.

HEAVY DUTY- Still, a low quality diamond, but a little harder stone that will hold an edge and not break down and disintegrate quite so fast under stress. A reasonable choice for a contractor or renter, in soft to medium hard materials.

PREMIUM- The minimum quality product needed to cut, drill or grind any hard material on a professional or production basis. Under any condition, you would be money ahead to pay the extra price for premium quality, and see the reward in faster cuts (less time on the job, less labor, fuel and equipment cost) and in longer life. Once again, this upgrade may cost 20% more but yield in excess of 50% in speed and life.

SUPREME- This is a marginal choice, probably correct for a professional contractor, or a cutting application when time is of the essence. However on an occasional job, this may be overkill.

SUPREME PLUS- SUPERCALIFRAGILISTIC- Whatever the particular manufacturer calls his best grade- Beware, this may be a great choice for you, or simply getting bacon on your cheeseburger, it may taste better and cost more, but still doesn’t fill you up. Some are extended segment height, some have a higher diamond concentration or both. Many occasions, the equipment used by inexperienced cutters, may not have the power required to utilize the extra diamonds (doubling the cutting teeth means doubling the power to get the same pressure on each tooth.) consequently, if you do not have a high powered saw, you gain nothing. This is your choice. Better yet call us and ask about your scenario.

In summary, don’t be the sucker that thinks you are getting a great deal by purchasing a $300 blade for $49. You are being cheated. You are getting a $49 blade for $49.


#1- They are all the same. Three worldwide manufacturers provide 90% of telemarketed blades. Telemarketers purchase the same blades as other telemarketers, in bulk, unmarked quantities, then paint or glue their cute little label on them with their ferocious fabricated names of storms, tuff animals, and warriors to add pazaz, excitement and to make you assume that blade is not only an aggressive cutting device but also very unique, and created by their very own scientists in an underground laboratory. If it looks and smells like a fish, it probably is a fish no matter what it’s wrapped in.

#2- Telemarketer salesmen make 40% on each sale. Often times, they do not get a lot of takers and may call 100 or more numbers per day, but if you were his only score out of the hundred calls, and if you bought those ten $200 blades at half price for $1,000, he got $400 from you. That’s about $105,000 annually minimum. No wonder he doesn’t sell cars. The only question I have and perhaps you can help me understand is “how does he know that you need more blades but you don’t?

#3- “If I buy 10 blades, can I get a free saw?” YES, it’s simple. A gas powered hot saw costs $900. Ten $50 blades cost $500 or $1,400 total. Simply write a check for 10 blades at $233 per blade, or $2,330 total, and they will send you ten $50 blades which they will claim to be worth $233, along with a saw, and the extra $930 will be the 40% commission. What did you really expect? A good deal? Instead, buy the saw for $900 and select the correct blades with the application, price and quality specifications you require. If you want 10 blades get them, if you only need 3, only get three. Either way, you are getting what you require and the accounting of the cost is real, instead of a yard sale type bargain.


DIAMOND SEGMENTS & MATRIX- Diamond blades do not cut, they grind away. There are several types of cutting edges such as continuous rim, turbo/castellated, and segment type. Each of these styles work better on certain materials and depths in regards to chipping, speed, carrying water, and extracting dust. The most common style is “segmented” made by fusing segments to the blade core. Segments are a mixture of various materials. The best description I have heard compares a diamond segment to a chocolate chip cookie; the dough being the matrix and the diamonds being the chocolate chips. They are both mixed together in a recipe, molded and baked till done. The matrix holds the diamond in place and obviously too many chips would make the cookie fall apart and there is a limited amount of diamonds in a segment for the same reason. Like most mothers that put secret ingredients in, so do the blade engineers, (they even wear aprons) this is what makes one blade different from another.

The cutting concept idea is that a diamond can only cut for so long until it becomes dull. Once it becomes dull it does nothing except get in the way and deflects away from what you are trying to cut, and being the hardest material on earth that could be a problem. For this reason, engineers design a matrix that is as soft as the material being cut allows. If a diamond became dull for example after only ten blade revolutions from cutting hard concrete and re-bar, they would try to make the matrix soft enough using very soft metals, so that the metal based matrix would wear down to somewhere near the size of the diamond within the segment during those ten revolutions so the dull stone would fall out and allow a new diamond to become exposed and immediately take over cutting in place of the fallen one.

Consequently, if one was cutting a softer material such as asphalt, the engineer would try to determine how many revolutions a diamond would stay sharp in that material, then design a harder matrix by adding tungsten carbide or other hard metal powder into the recipe, then cooking it in the oven to allow for example, a thousand revolutions before the diamond got dull and the matrix wore down enough to let the soon to be dull diamond fall out, and a new one to take it’s place.

This is the reason there is a certain blade for a certain material being cut, or a certain horse power rating, or even a wet or dry concept.

DRY BLADES are relatively new to the industry, but have come along way, within the past few years. The biggest difference between wet and dry blades is the method the segments are attached to the blade core. Prior to dry blade technology, segments were brazed on with silver solder. Silver solder melts at somewhere near 1,300 degrees but loses its strength and integrity near 300*. Consequently, anytime one would use a soldered blade dry, it would get hot and the segments flew off. Thus, the era of laser welding segments, fused the two pieces together, instead of using glue that could break down with heat.

That is why now segments stay on, even when sparks are flying with a dry blade. (There are a few other segment bonding processes, but laser welding is the standard of the industry.

However, remember this, choosing a wet blade over a dry blade is not like choosing between the Pink and the Yellow Hummer. Each application has advantages and drawbacks. You will never get better cutting results in terms of life and speed with Dry blades or bits, or even a better shine with Dry polishing pads compared to wet products. Wet products are simply higher quality tools. But on the other hand, on small jobs, or areas where water is not available or practical, dry products make sense. A stone fabrication shop for example, has wet saws, line polishers, sink cutters and even wet polishing crews, and they all walk around on wet floors in rubber boots, and the water is recycled in trenches and troughs. Water is everywhere, why not use water? It is the correct application, best cost per foot, fastest production and longest life, but attempt this miraculous feat in a homeowners’ kitchen with hardwood floors and installed cabinets and see how far you get, I guarantee they will Tar and Feather you.

In summary, use dry products and make allowances in your job costs to compensate. You may only yield a half dozen small jobs with a $150 dry Hot Saw blade instead of 20 wet jobs. But when there are several workers, a 10 wheel dump truck, a track hoe, a deadline and a road shut down, there are more things to worry about and much better places to save than the darn $25 blade cost. What a terrific choice.

Dry blades, bits and grinding wheels require cooling. Instead of water you must cool with air circulation. For every second a dry tool cuts, it must be allowed to air cool for that same duration. Cut for five seconds then let it free spin for 5 seconds. This is the trade off. If you do not have the time to allow your tool to air cool, then use wet blades. You must either make time or you will simply use it till it burns up, cooks the segment, breaks down the diamond, quits cutting and throws melted slag, and is rendered not only useless, but VERY DANGEROUS. Then throw on a new one and continue until it is ruined also, then another and another, after all I am a blade salesman and that is more sales for me. Listen to what I am saying. Cool your blades, bits and wheels; You cannot have it both ways, there truly is a tradeoff and this is the most significant part, allow your dry diamond products to air circulate and cool while cutting and allow this extra time into your budget, your bids and your safety program.